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If you ever thought that Valentino would not recover after Garavanni's retirement, think again. The duo Chiuri and Piccioli came, saw and conquered. Their last work for the Italian house is proof of this and, to top it off, the Haute Couture collection for Autumn/Winter 2013/14 came definitely to define a concept by the recent design duo that represents Valentino.
The lights turn off and we can listen, for a few seconds, to the beginning of Mike Oldfield's Tubular Bells, a controversial album by a musician who affirmed himself by insisting in his concept. When nobody else gave him the deserved value, it was Virgin Records who invested on the album that became Gold in the U.S. and remained two hundred and seventy-nine weeks on the British charts.
The show starts in an elegant atmosphere, between Renaissance and Baroque elements. Lace, brocades, transparencies and textures make the collection. A dress in shades of bordeaux crosses the runway as if its tail floated, embroidered with a shell that could come from the powerful and ethereal Venus by Botticelli. Sinuous golden reliefs frame images of exotic animals that convey the idea of an art painting. The contrast created by the embossed textures transports us to an era of wealth, gold, exaggeration and exoticism.
Some of the concepts that have been approached for Summer 2013 continue to this next season. Backless and cape dresses in a Russian empire style and overcoats that embrace us, leaving our arms elegantly showing.
A collection where several references to Italian aesthetics connect harmoniously, giving way to a new life in the house of Valentino.